In the depths of winter, when Puget Sound is socked in with drizzle and fog, remember what sits up there above the marine layer: Nestled among the glacier-capped peaks of the Cascades and Rockies are a dozen or so fantastic snow towns. On any winter weekend, you can load up the car with kids, down jackets and skis, and in just a few hours be checking into a cozy lodge suite, where the wood fire is already stoked and the cocoa mugs prewarmed. Even if skiing isn’t on the family-fun list, you can sled, skate and wage snowball fights to your heart’s content.
What’s the foolproof recipe for finding your family’s favorite snow town? Look for these ingredients: 1) a charming Main Street that’ll have you feeling as if you’ve strolled onto a holiday postcard; 2) proximity to winter adventures for all ages; 3) a family-friendly après-ski scene, even if it’s just sipping hot drinks and playing games beside a roaring fire; and, of course, 4) reliable snowfall throughout the winter months.
Here’s our guide to three of the most family-friendly powder-coated alpine villages in the Northwest, with insider tips for making the most of your visit this winter.
1. Whitefish, Montana: An undiscovered powder town
Known as “Stumptown” to locals (it’s the town’s original name), Whitefish, Montana, is an unpretentious town where resident skiers take full advantage of easy access to the semidry powder, numerous groomed runs and open forest glades. A gateway to the west side of Glacier National Park, this über-pretty Rocky Mountain village also hosts hordes of hikers and mountain bikers in summer months. But in winter, when the town is cocooned in snow in its location at the base of a terrific ski resort, tourism is light compared with other well-known Western ski towns such as Sun Valley or Vail. The rewards are yours: short lift lines, nicely priced lodge rooms, dozens of terrific eateries and stunning scenery.
Best for: Laid-back skiers, powder hounds, adventurous families
The scene: It’s less of a ski resort and more of a real mountain town, where small restaurants, cozy cafés and the mountain’s ski glades host as many locals as tourists.
Kids will love: Taking a horse-drawn sleigh ride through the snow at Bar W Guest Ranch, just west of town. Kids 3 and younger are free if they are sitting in someone’s lap; cozy blankets and hot beverages provided. See the website for more info and to book a ride online.
Snow fun: Go downhill skiing or snowboarding at Whitefish Mountain Resort on Big Mountain, just 6 miles north of town, where 3,000 skiable acres include 105 marked trails (some beginner runs), a vast powder bowl, glades for tree skiing and four terrain parks. The resort’s Ski & Ride School will get your beginner kids of all ages comfortable on the slopes, with the option of private lessons. The Kids Center offers on-site child care. The fully stocked ski rental shop includes adaptive equipment for people with disabilities. (One-day lift tickets $47–$94; kids 6 and younger ski free.)
Non-skiers will love the snowshoe walks departing from the Glacier National Park Apgar Visitor Center. There are no guided snowshoe trips this winter, but there are several trails that are available. You can see more information and guidelines on the website.
Breakfast like a local: Debate powder versus crud with locals over huevos rancheros or a stack of buttermilk pancakes at The Buffalo Café.
Post-slope shopping: Browse the Western-style downtown and end up at Stumptown Marketplace, a rustic indoor mall where you can sample artisan cheese, share a gooey cinnamon roll, stock up on fine teas and buy in bulk at a candy store.
Time your trip: For more than 50 years, the Whitefish Winter Carnival has celebrated the snowy season with parades, a kids’ carnival, fireworks and frivolity (Feb. 3–5, 2023).
Stay: The Lodge at Whitefish Lake boasts an indoor pool framed by a rock waterfall and a grand Northwest-style communal lobby for playing Scrabble beside a roaring fire. The spacious lodge rooms feature a gas fireplace, TV and Wi-Fi; suites and condos are also available.
Get there: Whitefish is a 9-hour drive from Seattle (mostly on I-90), but Alaska Airlines flies directly from Seattle to Glacier Park International Airport daily. Or, for the quintessential winter adventure, ride the rails from Seattle to Whitefish, soaking in the scenery during the trek on Amtrak’s Empire Builder Train.
2. Sisters, Oregon: Into the Wild West
At its elevation of nearly 3,200 feet, this Wild West–themed mountain town enjoys regular fresh blankets of snow in winter, so if you’re dressing like the locals, you’ll want to make sure your cowboy hats and boots are waterproofed. While the downtown wooden boardwalks and Old West storefront facades are mostly for the benefit of city slickers like us, Sisters’ 19th-century vibe isn’t a total gimmick — the town was established way back in 1888 as a stagecoach pit stop. Today, it’s a gateway to backcountry and downhill skiing, snowshoeing, hiking and fly-fishing adventures.
Sisters, about a 6-hour drive from Seattle, is 22 miles northwest of Bend, and straddles the high desert to its east and Cascade alpine country to its west. Its name hails from the trio of skyscraping, snowcapped volcanic peaks (known collectively as Three Sisters) that provide a stunning backdrop to your visit.
Best for: New skiers, wannabe cowboys, crowd-averse travelers
The scene: An Old West aesthetic permeates every shop and saloon in this throwback town.
Snow fun: A resort that’s under the radar but should be high on any Northwest family’s winter bucket list, Hoodoo Ski Area (34 runs, five lifts, open early December–April) is about a 30-minute drive from Sisters. Comprising 800 acres of ski terrain, Hoodoo is known as one of the most family-friendly ski areas in the Northwest, with several easy, beginner-friendly runs, lessons for all ages and an epic tubing center (10 runs for $17–$34 last season). As of Dec. 6, 2022 the tubing center is closed due to a staffing shortage. They are hoping to open soon, so be sure to check the website for updates. Powder hounds will find fun here, too, especially on the less developed backside. (Lift tickets run $25–$79, kids 7 and younger ski for free.)
Kids will love: Hoodoo’s great beginner terrain and rustic day lodge, which features board games, foosball, pool tables, snacks, hot cocoa and comfy, overstuffed couches for lounging.
Post-slope shopping: Stroll the wooden sidewalks of Sisters to pop into art galleries, specialty shops and the always bustling mercantile.
Like a local: Order a latte and croissant at Sisters Coffee Company and take a seat on the leather sofa beside the huge river-rock fireplace. After admiring the vast taxidermy collection on the wall, vintage sleds and wagon-wheel chandeliers, catch up on your reading or just listen in on the local gossip.
Nachos and craft beer: Central Oregon deserves its reputation as the craft beer capital of the Pacific Northwest, especially renowned for hoppy pale ales, and Three Creeks Brewing Co. rules that roost in Sisters. This family-friendly brewpub slings great burgers and appetizers, and it steps out of the brewpub box with items such as the chicken Thai rice bowl.
Stay: Stroll to restaurants and galleries from your vintage-vibe suite at Left Coast Lodge, a locally owned and operated motel downtown. The décor features plenty of quilts and throw pillows, but is tastefully cozy, not frilly or cluttered. And you can bring your dog!
Get there: Sisters is about a 6-hour drive from Seattle, or you catch a 1-hour flight from Seattle–Tacoma International Airport to nearby Redmond, Oregon.
3. Leavenworth, Washington: Go kitsch
Leavenworth, that faux Bavarian confection set in a scenic corner of the craggy Cascade foothills, might feel almost too familiar to Seattle-area families. But at just a 2-and-a-half-hour drive from the Emerald City, the winter fun per mile driven can’t be beat. With a nearby ski area, a sledding hill (and unofficial sledding in town), family-friendly hotels and restaurants, it offers snow end of fun for all ages. While this mountain town really turns the storybook charm to full throttle for the snow-laden holidays, it’s just as great during the rest of winter, too.
Best for: Alpine scenery lovers, cross-country skiers, multigenerational families
The scene: Deck the halls with boughs of kitsch! This Bavarian-themed village’s streets transform for the winter holidays, starting with its annual Christmas Lighting Festival in December, when half a million twinkling white lights are strung up along the steep roofs of its half-timbered buildings and festive tunes such as “O Tannenbaum” ring out. (The Lighting Festival takes place on weekends throughout December and lights are on display from Thanksgiving through mid-February.)
Kids will love: Pop in at The Gingerbread Factory for just-out-of-the-oven gingersnaps and snickerdoodles, and then marvel at the intricately decorated holiday gingerbread houses (available for sale).
Snow fun: A little more than a mile north of downtown is Ski Hill, a unique hub of various snow activities just right for the pint-sized set. It includes snowshoe trails, two alpine runs (day passes from $18; ages 5 and younger free) and a fun tubing hill (tubes provided; $30), both serviced by rope tows. A small lodge serves hot cocoa and other steaming beverages. On the west end of Leavenworth is the region’s most popular and kid-friendly groomed Nordic ski area, the easy, scenic Icicle River Trail system (day passes from $18; ages 5 and younger free).
For a big resort experience, drive just 40 minutes on Highway 2 to Stevens Pass, which offers great deals for families (kids 6 and younger ski free) and an extensive network of runs.
For non-ski thrills, bring your plastic sled to slide down the short but sweet sledding hill at Front Street Park; or book a ride along the Icicle River on a horse-drawn sleigh operated by Icicle Outfitters & Guides.
Worth the line: Don’t shed your down coats just yet — part of the fun of noshing at München Haus in winter is enjoying your hot bratwurst with a side of apple cider kraut on the outdoor patio (don’t worry: toasty wood fires and heaters take the chill off). Save room for a warm Bavarian pretzel you top yourself at the incredible mustard bar.
Hand-tossed: If your idea of family dinner is sharing a giant pizza pie, head to Leavenworth Pizza Company. Its housemade pizza sauce recipe is so good, it’s kept a well-guarded secret.
Post-sledding activity: Tucked in among the cute shops that peddle music boxes and Swiss chocolates in downtown Leavenworth is the must-visit Nutcracker Museum, where more than 5,000 nutcrackers on shelves and in glass cases beckon the curious for a closer look.
Time your trip: For maximum holiday cheer, aim for one of the first three full weekends in December, when the Lighting Festival is in full swing, to enjoy costumed holiday characters, handbell choirs, strolling carolers, roasted chestnuts, sledding, a cookie crawl for the kids and a Glühwein (hot spiced wine) tent for the grown-ups. Or head to the Bavarian Icefest (watch the website for 2023 dates) for icy games, sculptures, sledding and more.
Stay: In town, the Bavarian Lodge is one of the best choices for families. The rooms are a good value, and there’s a complimentary breakfast buffet, a heated outdoor swimming pool and hot tubs.
Get there: Leavenworth is about a 2-and-a-half-hour drive east of Seattle by car via either Interstate 90 or Highway 2.
4 more snow towns to tryMcCall, Idaho: The slopes of Sun Valley may draw the celebs, but no-glitz McCall and its two ski resorts (downhill and cross-country) draw powderhounds who prefer wide-open slopes and no lift lines. McCall’s epic Winter Carnival (Jan. 27–Feb. 5, 2023) hosts 10 days of intricate snow sculptures, dog sledding, snow bike races and parades. Winthrop, Washington: A great choice for families that love cross-country skiing, the Methow Valley boasts more than 120 miles of Nordic trails (some groomed, from easy to challenging). When you’re ready for a change of scenery, kids will love Winthrop’s open-air ice skating rink, and parents appreciate the delicious coffee at Rocking Horse Bakery. Baker City, Oregon: It’s the nearest town to Anthony Lakes Mountain Resort, blanketed in powdery, fluffy snow that’s a rare treat for Northwest skiers. The historic Geiser Grand Hotel in downtown Baker City is the place to stay; its huge rooms with soaring ceilings have been restored to their original 19th-century glory. Draft horses lead sleigh rides, allowing passengers to peep cheery holiday light displays. Nelson, British Columbia: If your kids already consider themselves to be powder heads or shredders, take them to Nelson, a truly authentic mountain town that retains a throwback ski-bum vibe that’s hard to find these days. Set along B.C.’s “Powder Highway” through the Kootenay Rockies, Nelson is home to the little-known but much-beloved Whitewater Ski Resort. |
Editor’s note: This article was originally published in 2019, and updated in December 2022.
