Island Dreaming: Relax and Recharge With the Kids in Kauai

Wandering chickens (moa), miles of beaches and a slower pace of life: Visiting Kauai with kids can be a truly magical experience. This island doesn’t want you to rush through its sights; it’s not the place to visit if you lack patience or need a packed itinerary. Don’t get me wrong, there’s plenty to do, probably more than you can manage in a week. But trust me when I say the beauty of Kauai is at its finest when you take your time. This isn’t an island that feeds FOMO. Rather, it’s a giving place that asks little of its visitors except the chance to let the true spirit of the island reveal itself. It’s a small island, making it easy to visit lots of places on a relaxed schedule. And like all of Hawaii, Kauai is truly family friendly. Here are some highlights and tips I took away from my recent visit.

1. Prepare for rainbow weather.

Kauai is known as the “Garden Island” because it is resplendent with plant life. All that beautiful green means it’s also one of the rainiest places on earth. We visited in mid-May, and although this is not typically the rainiest month, it rained at least a little every day. But as Dolly Parton said, “If you want the rainbow, you’ve got to put up with the rain.” Nearly every afternoon, the clouds would part and the sun would shine again.

2. Take your time.

I can’t stress this tip enough. Kauai is a small island, and most of its roads have a speed limit of 35 miles per hour. This is not the place for impatient drivers and rushing to your destination. Kauai is very easy to navigate, local drivers are friendly, and when you drive slower, you can all see the landscape better. Plus, you can give yourself time to pull over when you see something interesting and explore it. Follow the signs that read “Old Town” or “Historic Site” and you will be rewarded.

3. Stay in the same place the entire time.

There’s no shortage of accommodations on Kauai. Especially when you have kids in tow, staying a week in the same place is just easier. It’s easy enough to stay in Lihue or Poipu and still plan to spend an entire day on the North Shore. Located near Lihue, the Outrigger Kauai Beach Resort & Spa is beautiful, has multiple pools and is surprisingly reasonably priced. If you want to be closer to Poipu Beach, Waikomo Stream Villas are well-located vacation rentals with full kitchens.

4. Sign up to volunteer.

Malama Hawaii is a statewide program throughout the Hawaiian Islands that offers tourists a way to minimize the negative impact of tourism and to malama (give back). Families with older kids and teens can sign up for more specific opportunities, but even those families with very young kids can participate by joining in beach cleanups with the Surfrider Foundation. In fact, some hotels offer beach cleanup kits. Showing up at a Saturday beach cleanup is a great way to make local friends and connections with other families.

5. Park it on the beach.

You can’t go wrong at many of the beaches on Kauai, but some have better setups for kids than others. Don’t miss Lydgate Beach Park (near Lihue, Coconut Coast), which holds an ongoing Saturday beach cleanup. Lydgate also has restrooms, parking and lifeguards. On the South Shore, the popular Poipu Beach Park likewise has lifeguards and restrooms, and can be a great spot for older kids or adults to practice bodyboarding. Plus, it’s right across the road from Puka Dog, which serves hot dogs, smoothies and other easy fare. My favorite of all the beaches in the south is Salt Pond Beach Park, which has gentle surf and is a little off the beaten path. Part of the joy of Kauai is exploring and trying out different spots so that you can find your favorite, too.

Remember that the ocean can be serene one minute and dangerous the next. Don’t let lifeguards lull you into a false sense of security. Visit Hawaii Ocean Safety to monitor conditions. Also, be aware that sunscreens that contain oxybenzone and octinoxate are banned in Hawaii. If you plan to bring some with you, be sure it does not contain either of those ingredients, even if the label claims to be “reef safe.” Or pick some up in Hawaii, where only truly reef-safe sunscreens are sold. Check out the Surfrider Foundation’s list of chemicals found in sunscreen that can damage coral reefs and other sea life.

6. Visit the westernmost bookstore in the United States.

Nestled in the heart of Hanapepe Town, a historic town featuring several shops, weekly farmers and artists markets, and its famous swinging bridge, is the westernmost bookstore in the U.S. Talk Story Books has been in business for 20 years and has the T-shirts to prove it. This delightful bookshop stocks something for everyone: new and used books, plus vinyl, journals, comics and gifts. And best of all, there are bookstore cats! Bonus: This little burg is along the scenic route to Waimea Valley.

7. Visit Kauai’s “Grand Canyon.”

Waimea Valley State Park treats visitors to a unique drive and landscape, offering lots of red dirt and spectacular views. The trip involves a long, windy road to the top, so if your kids don’t love being in the car, there are plenty of turnouts, such as Kekaha Lookout, for stopping along the way. Just be advised that this is a fairly rural location, and your cellphone may not get service here.

8. Spend a day in the gardens, then chill out in Old Koloa Town.

Allerton Garden and McBryde Garden comprise one of the most beautiful spots on the island—and on earth. At McBryde Garden, you enter into a massive canyon with peaks surrounding you, and learn about the important native plants and foods of Hawaii. Self-guided tours can be booked online. To go on the Allerton tour, you need to make reservations in advance; it’s the only way to see this garden. During this tour, kids will love riding on the little bus, which makes multiple stops and allows you to explore on your own.

A 10-minute drive from Poipu, Old Koloa Town is a great spot to ramble with the kids. It also has plenty of ice cream, shave ice, and restaurants for easy to-go or quick meals with the kids.

9. Stop and see Spouting Horn.

You’ll see signs on the South Shore for Spouting Horn. Follow them. It’s basically a natural lava tube through which, when the waves crash, the water shoots up in a column, as if from a whale’s blowhole. The sight is free, and it’s ridiculously amusing. We spent a solid 30 minutes laughing every time it splashed up. The viewing spot for Spouting Horn is also a great place to look for humpback whales from December to May.

10. Hang at the North Shore.

No matter what part of the island you’re staying on, don’t skip the North Shore. Plan a visit to the Kilauea Point Lighthouse (book tickets ahead of time), grab lunch in Hanalei, then meander along Hanalei Beach and check out the historic pier. Be advised, the waves can be a little bigger here. Most families find the sea gentler at Anini Beach, where sea turtles are often spotted. If you take Kuhio Highway (Route 560) nearly all the way to the end, through Princeville, you will find another botanical garden, the Limahuli Garden & Preserve, which has walking paths and some stunning scenic viewpoints. Experience a hidden gem by heading to the beachfront Opakapaka at the Hanalei Colony Resort for some delicious food, including a local taro burger.

11. Shop local.

We spent one afternoon dedicated to shopping for gifts for loved ones back home, and found Kapaa Town to be the place to go. There are plenty of shops featuring local artists and Hawaiian-made goods, and several good restaurants in between. The entire area is walkable and easy to navigate.

Getting there: Most travelers taking flights from Seattle, Portland or other destinations will have a layover on either Oahu or Maui, then take a puddle-jumper flight (45 minutes) to Kauai’s Lihue Airport. Delta, Hawaiian, United, Alaska and other airlines offer daily flights.